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Climbing hydrangea Miranda is one of the most beautiful plant varieties. It is distinguished by its excellent appearance, it is a deciduous liana climbing walls, trees, and also creeping along the ground. A winter-hardy plant is not afraid of winds, loves moisture. Taking care of him is not a big deal.
Description of hydrangea stalked Miranda
Hydrangea Miranda does not have a trunk, but it has aerial roots, with the help of which it "crawls" up all kinds of supports - walls, fences, trees. The foliage is green-green, shiny, serrated. The veins are well distinguished in the center. The leaves of the petioled Miranda hydrangea are small in size, together with the stem, make up a liana, about 4.5 m long. In autumn, the foliage turns golden yellow, falls off in November.
The inflorescences are usually white, flat, about 25 cm in diameter. Individual flowers, only 2 cm in diameter, exude a sweet smell, attracting bees.
Hydrangea petiole Miranda in landscape design
Miranda hydrangea has won the hearts of many gardeners, both amateurs and professionals. It enjoys success in growing in parks where arbors will serve as a frame for vines.
Craftsmen use some tricks to shape the Miranda hydrangea, even though it is not a bush or tree. For this, artificial frames are created, along which Miranda will braid, stretch as high as possible.
Winter hardiness of hydrangea stalked Miranda
All sorts of hydrangea varieties are considered winter hardy. Liana Miranda is no exception, she tolerates frost well.
However, young plants require little work. First, the vines are removed from the frame, support and other surfaces, spruce branches are placed under it, and covered with burlap or other auxiliary materials on top.
Planting and caring for Miranda hydrangea
Hydrangea of the Miranda variety is moisture-loving, responds well to feeding, needs pruning. It is noteworthy that she loves soft water and gentle soil. Planting sites should have diffused light, and for the winter, the plant can not be touched.
Selection and preparation of the landing site
The hydrangea of the Miranda variety is considered wind-resistant. She also loves the sun, but foliage can fade. Therefore, it is customary to plant it in a place where the sun's rays will be direct, scattered and in partial shade for some time. If the gardener wants the hydrangea to grow up, then she needs to provide support, usually trees, walls of houses, arches. However, it is worth remembering that Miranda is hygrophilous, so you should not plant it next to large trees and dense bushes so that they do not take soil water. But you can bring the vines to the tree trunk yourself.
Also, the flower can play a good role as a ground cover option.
Landing rules
Planting hydrangea Miranda is carried out in early spring or autumn. Preference should be given to 2-3-year-old seedlings. If the gardener chooses group seedlings, then the distance between them should be at least 1 m.
The planting hole is dug 50 cm deep, 40 cm long and 40 cm wide. It is important to provide it with a well-drained system. At the bottom, place 10 cm of a drainage layer of pebbles, expanded clay and other suitable material.
Until the moment of permanent planting, the hydrangea is kept in an equal mixture of peat, sand and earth. The soil for the Miranda variety should be light, fertile, with an acidic reaction. 10-15 cm of the mixture is spread on the drainage system, for which humus (2), fertile soil (2), peat (1) and sand (1) are mixed. Before planting, it is important to straighten the roots, moisten and lay them in the hole. Sprinkle with earth on top and tamp it well to avoid voids.
If the hydrangea is planted from a container, the depth of the hole should be 2 times the container.
Watering and feeding
Immediately after planting, the hydrangea is watered abundantly, then the surface is mulched with peat chips, crushed with bark. So the plant will retain moisture longer. The water should be soft, ideally rainwater. If a water supply is used, then this option should settle and warm up. Sometimes a little lemon juice is added to such water.
In a drought, watered weekly with 2 buckets per branch. It is also necessary to spray the vines. This is done in the early morning or after the scorching sun sets.
Top dressing is carried out monthly by means of complex mineral fertilizers. They are sometimes mixed with organic ones.
Pruning hydrangea curly Miranda
In cases where the gardener breeds vertical Miranda hydrangeas, it has to be cut regularly. During this process, the main stems are tied up, "guided" along the desired growth path. The excess is cut off, giving freedom to new shoots. In order for the hydrangea to grow as large as possible, in large inflorescences, large-scale pruning is done in early spring, leaving several branches and up to 6 buds on them.
If the hydrangea is grown with a “carpet”, it is possible not to cut it off, but only to remove the dead processes.
Preparing for winter
As already noted, adult specimens do not need special care for the winter. Miranda can withstand 30-degree frosts without coating. Actually, she hibernates under the snow, which creates a kind of greenhouse conditions. Frozen shoots can be seen, but they should bloom in the first spring.
As for young plants, they are removed from the support and frames, laid on spruce branches and covered with it on top. You can use another coating that the gardener prefers. Vines are mulched at the roots.
Reproduction
The most common way of propagation of hydrangeas is by cuttings. They do this in early summer, in June. A young stalk up to 15 cm is selected from a lignified shoot. The lower sections are treated with a root growth stimulator, planted obliquely in fertile soil and covered with a film, a jar, creating greenhouse conditions. It is important to maintain humidity, regularly ventilate and protect from sunlight. After about a month, rooting occurs.
Another way is propagation by layering. In early May or August, the lower branch of the hydrangea is tilted to the ground, cut in the middle and fixed. In the place of the cut, they are slightly instilled, and the top is fixed in an upright position. By next spring, the dug-in part promises to give roots and become an independent plant, it can be resettled.
Diseases and pests
Every season, two times with an interval of a week, hydrangea is treated for pests. The method is chosen by the gardener - folk, biological, but it is better to exclude the chemical one.
Often Miranda is struck by chlorosis - the leaves lose color, becoming light yellow. Potassium nitrate and ferrous sulfate solution will correct the situation.
Dark oily spots can appear on foliage and stems - this is downy mildew. To get rid of it is quite simple, you need to spray the hydrangea with a copper-soap solution.
There is also a fungal disease on foliage - gray rot. The leaves are removed, the plant is treated with fungicides.
Conclusion
The climbing hydrangea Miranda is another excellent variety from the hydrangea family. Like others, it is beautiful in its own way, especially during the flowering period. It endures winter with dignity. Reproduction lends itself easily. And decorates the area for many years.
Reviews of petiolate hydrangea Miranda
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