Content
Pruning the vesicle in the fall is a common practice among gardeners. Shrub maintenance is simple, but requires certain requirements to be met. Recommendations for the pruning procedure and preparing the crop for winter are presented below.
Is it possible to cut the vesicle in the fall
Autumn pruning of the vesicle is useful, but only after all the foliage has fallen. This is a sanitary and rejuvenating procedure that involves shortening branches, pruning old, diseased, damaged trunks and branches.
If the bush is planted as a hedge, it is pruned at any time to give the desired shape to the crown. Trimming for the sake of forming a certain appearance is necessary as the young shoots grow back. It is noteworthy that anyone can make a crown. Despite the predominance of rectangular low hedges, they achieve rounded, irregular shapes by cutting, it is permissible to use the techniques of topiary art.
In the fall, only the final procedure is carried out. An exception is the need to transplant a plant.
How to prune the bladder in the fall
It is simple to cut the bladder correctly in the fall, this will require:
- sharp tools - pruning shears, a saw for thick branches;
- antiseptic for saw cuts, so as not to infect an infection, it is advisable to use a garden pitch;
- gloves protecting hands from microtrauma.
It is necessary to identify all the branches of the vesicle requiring removal, then proceed to the procedure. Care should be taken to avoid damaging healthy shoots. In addition, cuts, cuts, must be even, without chips, splits. The error can be corrected by making a cut or cut below. It is forbidden to damage, remove the bark from the remaining branch of the vesicle.
Winter hardiness of the bladder
The shrub has high winter hardiness. In central Russia, an adult vesicle tolerates frosts without needing shelter. In the fall, it is advisable to mulch, add humus, peat, straw. Insulated roots will increase the plant's resistance, and in spring, the shelter will play the role of feeding, ensuring health, good growth, and nutrition for the bladder.
In the Arctic Circle, it is desirable to insulate the plant (especially varietal), however, varieties close to wild tolerate the conditions of harsh winters well. The main factor is the snow covering the roots.
Young, newly transplanted specimens are more sensitive to cold weather than adult, healthy seedlings. It is necessary to carefully consider the weather forecast and properly prepare the plant for wintering.
How to prepare the bladder for winter
The bladder is undemanding to care; in the fall, only minor preparation for winter is needed. After pruning in the autumn, you must:
- cover adult bushes with young ones, if they promise a snowless winter;
- make sure that the root system does not lock up, rot can destroy the planting;
- process the bladder from pests;
- add top dressing.
Bubbles are often used as urban landscaping, because the culture is undemanding to care and rarely gets sick.
How to cover the bladder for the winter
Plants of different ages are covered in autumn in different ways. An adult bush is insulated as follows:
- In late autumn, the plant is carefully pulled together with a rope.
- On top, put on a cone of roofing material, a dense, non-woven covering material.
- The roots are insulated with mulch, spruce branches.
This need arises only under extreme weather conditions: little snow, frosty winters, spring frosts.
The young vesicle is cut off as much as possible, the roots are also insulated. Then the cut bush is covered with spruce branches. Fingernail should be used dry, without any signs of decay or mold. The procedure is carried out annually until the plant reaches 4-5 years.
Bladder care throughout the year
In the fall, the bladder needs more than pruning. To ensure high-quality wintering for the shrub, you need to properly care for the plant throughout the year. A poorly overwintered culture may die in the spring or be vulnerable to parasites and diseases.
Transfer
It is advisable to transplant the vesicle at a young age, but adult bushes can also be transferred to another place. The procedure should be carried out in early spring (the buds should still be sleeping) or in the fall, after shedding the leaves.
Adult specimens do not tolerate transplanting well, but following the rules guarantees success and health of the bush. For a successful transplant, you must:
- Carry out preliminary trimming. In addition to sanitary measures, all stems should be cut to 0.2 m. Such an operation will increase the chances of the transplanted specimen for survival by reducing the load on the roots.
- Dig up with the largest possible clod of earth. It is important not to scrape off the ground; for better adhesion, it is advisable to lightly water the plant. Lack of soil on the roots will damage them.
- Prepare a hole slightly larger than the size of an earthen coma. The soil left over from the preparation should not be disposed of. The material is useful for compacting the free space.
- The transplanted (in spring or autumn does not matter) the vesicle is watered. It is advisable to use a solution of Kornevin or Heteroauxin. Fertilizers will strengthen the root system, which will help nourish the shrub better.
- With a spring transplant, the leaves are sprayed with Ecogel-antistress after emergence, it is permissible to use Epin.
Watering and feeding
Even an unpretentious bladderworm is important for the humidity regime, especially for young or transplanted specimens. The composition of the soil also plays a role:
- On loams in hot climates, watering is required twice a week. Each adult bush takes 4 buckets of water.
- Clayy soils require checking the moisture content not from above, but from the inside, so as not to overmoisten the ground. The root system dies with excess moisture.
- Sandy soils require regular watering more than twice a week.
- Bushes growing in lowlands should be watered only after prolonged drought.
- On other soils, watering is carried out as the top layer of the earth dries up.
Bubbles must be fed twice a year - in autumn and spring. Mineral fertilizers are applied in the fall, nitrogen-containing (including organic) fertilizers - in the spring.
Mineral fertilizers (for example, nitroammofosku) are applied with a solution. One matchbox of the substance is diluted in 10 liters of water. An adult bladderworm will need 15 liters of solution.
In the spring they are fed with a mixture of urea, ammonium nitrate, mullein. Prepare a solution by adding to 10 liters of water:
- 1 tbsp. l. saltpeter;
- 1 tbsp. l. urea;
- 0.5 l mullein.
Mulching material serves as an additional fertilizer. Consider the amount of humus, peat or manure when planning fertilization in the fall.
Protection against diseases and pests
If the bladderworm is looked after correctly, cut in a timely manner, cut the sections, apply fertilizers, it shows good resistance to any pests and diseases.
A common bush problem is chlorosis. The disease provokes drying of the branches, especially the tops of the stems, premature yellowing of young leaves. The reason is lack of nutrition.
If signs of chlorosis are found, it is necessary to spray the leaves (water the bush) with iron-containing fertilizers (Iron Chelate, Ferofit, Ferrilene, Antichlorosis). After the disease has receded, it is advisable to cut out the damaged branches and burn them away from the site. Additionally, it is recommended to observe for 1-2 weeks so that chlorosis does not return. Relapses lead to the complete destruction of the bush.
Occasionally, a fungal infection is likely. The situation is possible only if the soil is waterlogged and the branches of the bush are damaged. The beginning of rotting of the root system is especially dangerous. When powdery mildew occurs, diseased shoots are cut out, the bush is urgently transplanted to an elevation in dry soil. The affected roots, revealed during examination, must be cut out.
There have been rare cases of attacks by parasites such as drooling pennits. They spoil the appearance of the shrub, but a simple insecticide treatment will quickly eliminate the problem.
Conclusion
Pruning the bush in the fall is a necessary part of preparing the shrub for winter. It is permissible not to touch only young plants if there are no diseased branches. Cutting the seedlings of the bladder plant is allowed not in the fall, but immediately after flowering, in order to give the crown a shape.
