Content
- 1 Secrets of grafting fruit trees
- 1.1 Why is it needed
- 1.2 Tools
- 1.3 The ways
- 1.3.1 Ablactation
- 1.3.2 Cleavage grafting
- 1.3.3 Simple copulation
- 1.3.4 English copulation (with tongue)
- 1.3.5 Bark grafting
- 1.3.6 Parasitic vaccination
- 1.3.7 Side cut grafting
- 1.3.8 Budding with a shield (with a kidney) behind the bark
- 1.3.9 Budding with a flap (with a kidney) in the butt
- 1.3.10 Bridging grafting for the bark
- 1.4 Timing
- 2 Conclusion
Grafting of fruit trees is a process of plant propagation while maintaining the varietal qualities of the crop. In gardening, different methods of grafting are used, and there are many purposes for using this method. Connoisseurs who have mastered several methods can already share them with novice young amateurs, their experience will help solve many problems associated with grafting fruit trees in the garden. There are a huge number of recommendations on how best to plant trees, at what time and at what time of the year it can be done. Not all of them are characterized by completeness of information, we hope our article will be the most informative and useful for readers.
Secrets of grafting fruit trees
It is necessary to start learning the "basics" of the process of grafting fruit trees by understanding the questions: why do I and my garden need grafting, what tools and devices do I need to use, what is the best way to graft plants, at what time of the year the grafting will be most effective. Let's take a closer look at each stage of the event together and in more detail.
Why is it needed
Many gardeners at a certain time and for a number of reasons come to the decision that they need to master the skills of grafting fruit trees in their garden. We will list some reasons:
- there is a need to propagate good varieties of woody plants, but propagation by other methods (not grafting) does not bring the desired results;
- weak plants grafted on a sufficiently strong rootstock become the most hardy and healthy compared to growing on their own roots;
- plants grafted onto a stock, which has been growing for many years in a certain environment and soil, adapt faster and more efficiently to living conditions, in close contact with the "adoptive parent";
- as a result of grafting, a strong rootstock with excellent properties: frost resistance, resistance to diseases and pests, the ability to give significant growths in one season and many others, transfers these qualities to a scion with low viability;
- grafting can solve the problem when the variety of a particular tree does not suit you and there is a desire to replace it with a better look;
- a tree with wonderful qualities grows in your garden, but it is already quite old, having collected the required number of cuttings during pruning, you can graft them on a younger stock;
- grafting will allow you to fulfill your desire to grow several varieties of the same species on one rootstock;
- by grafting, you can change the decorative shape of the tree, increase or decrease the overhang of the branches, make the stem of the plant high, medium or low;
- in crop farms: agrofirms, nurseries, farms, grafting is used to breed new varieties and hybrids, as well as to grow ready-grafted seedlings for the purpose of selling to the population.
As you can see, there are many reasons for grafting fruit trees; every gardener will have his own individual needs in this matter.
Tools
Grafting a scion on a stock can be compared to a surgical operation, sterility must be observed and special instruments must be used. The entire operation during vaccination is carried out manually, and the instruments become more convenient to use every year.Ordinary kitchen knives are considered unsuitable for grafting trees; special gardening tools are needed for grafting. These are very sharp knives with comfortable handles and sturdy blades. Not only will they be needed when grafting fruit trees, the complete set for gardeners includes:
- professional vaccination device (secateurs);
- U-shaped knife (installed in the grafting mechanism);
- V-shaped knife for grafting very thin twigs;
- Ω-shaped knife (makes a lock connection of the scion with the stock);
- screwdriver and wrench.
The vaccination kit may include a tube of garden varnish and a disc with a thin grafting tape, if they are not in the kit, you will have to purchase them separately. These kits are sold in retail chains or online stores.
The ways
Grafting of fruit trees has been used by gardeners for a very long time, around the world there are more than 150 species and methods of propagating crops using this method. Trees are planted both in the old-fashioned ways and with the use of ultra-modern devices. In one article it is impossible to tell in detail about all the methods of vaccination, we will describe only some of them, the most popular and not too difficult to use.
Ablactation
Such grafting of fruit trees occurs in a random natural way: with a strong gust of wind, the branches of neighboring trees can catch on each other, a tight hook occurs, and later, from close contact, the branches grow together. This grafting method can be used to create live hedges.
Cleavage grafting
The stock in this case can be from 1 to 10 cm thick. A horizontal cut is made on it. Depending on the diameter of the trunk, one longitudinal or two cross-shaped incisions (see photo) with a depth of 2 to 3 cm are made on the cut, 1, 2 or 4 cuttings with 2-4 buds are placed in the cut, cuttings are cut in the form of a double-sided wedge. The scion should be placed as close to the rootstock bark as possible so that the accretion takes place more efficiently. This vaccination is simple, every amateur gardener can master it.
Simple copulation
The diameter of the scion and rootstock, in this case, does not really matter; using this method, you can graft fruit trees with the smallest thickness of cuttings, but you need to have an accurate eye in order to pick up branches of the same diameter. A sharp oblique cut is made on the grafted cuttings, and they are connected to the stock exactly along the cut, then a small stick-tire is applied, and the whole structure is tightly wrapped with insulating or grafting tape. The disadvantage of this method of vaccination is that in the first few years the joint is at risk of debris, therefore an additional tire is needed, which is changed or removed as the vaccine grows together.
English copulation (with tongue)
The tongue, in this grafting method, plays the role of a holder that holds the cuttings in one place, preventing them from moving when wrapped with tape. In the center of the oblique cut on the cuttings, another transverse incision is made and slightly bent in the form of tongues, which are tightly connected in the "groove to groove" type, and are also wrapped with grafting tape. Cuttings grafted with simple or English copulation grow well and quickly. These methods are most popular with gardeners, as they do not require special skills and are easy to learn.
Bark grafting
Larger cuttings of fruit trees (up to 20 cm in diameter) can be grafted in this way.The method of such grafting is very simple to implement, but it can be performed only during the period of active movement of the sap inside the plant, preferably in spring or summer. At this time of year, the bark of the tree is much more elastic. A horizontal cut is made on the rootstock stump, the bark is cut across in 2-3 places with a depth of up to 3-5 cm, the edges are slightly moved apart. The end of the scion cuttings is cut in the form of a one-sided wedge and placed under the bark, the grafting site is treated with garden varnish and tightly wrapped with tape. For the stability of the scion, small sticks are used.
Parasitic vaccination
This method of grafting is used on the branches or trunks of a growing tree. The stock is not cut, a small segment with a depth of ¼ of the diameter is cut out on the trunk or branch in the form of a corner. In the lower part of the triangle, the bark is incised, its edges are slightly moved apart, a grafted stalk up to 3 cm thick is inserted into this incision. The end of the stalk is prepared in the same way as in the "bark grafting" method. In this way, novice gardeners can learn the skills of grafting fruit trees without much damage to the tree. Even if the stalk does not graft, it is easy to remove it later, treat the wound on the tree, and after 1-2 years the grafting process can be carried out again in the same place.
Side cut grafting
As shown in the photo on the left, on one side of the stock, which does not have to be cut, an oblique incision is made, deepened into the stock by 1-1.5 mm from above, and from below by 3-6 mm, a scion with a non-sided wedge-shaped end up to 2 , 5 cm. Such an inoculation is carried out in spring, autumn or even summer. The buds of the scion wake up the next spring.
Budding with a shield (with a kidney) behind the bark
Grafting fruit trees using one bud per scion is called budding. A T-shaped bark incision is made on the rootstock, a small fragment of the scion with one bud (shield) is prepared and inserted into this incision, the upper ends of which should be slightly moved apart so that the shield can be inserted conveniently. This method of grafting is used if there are not enough cuttings for reproduction, therefore, 1-2 cuttings available are divided into several bud-shields. The survival rate of the scutes in this case is quite high. Budding is carried out during the period of active vegetation of plants, in spring or at the end of summer.
Budding with a flap (with a kidney) in the butt
As the name of the method implies, the grafting is done by applying a shield with a bud to the stock, on which a section of the bark (pocket) of the same shape and size as the shield is cut out, the scion is inserted into the pocket and fixed on the stock. You can get hands-on experience with bud grafting of fruit trees by watching the video at the end of this paragraph.
Bridging grafting for the bark
There is another method of grafting fruit trees, which is effective in restoring a plant if for some reason only part of it has suffered: hares gnawed the lower part of the trunk, as a result of external mechanical impact, part of the branches was damaged. Before grafting, it is necessary to protect the tree from further adverse effects - cadmium leakage and drying out of the damaged area of the bark and wood. If it was not possible to save cadmium, it is necessary to save the tree by grafting with a "bridge". The entire damaged part of the tree is cleaned, cuts are made above and below this area (see grafting for the bark), several long cuttings are prepared (see copulation). Insert them from below and from above. The cuttings should be of sufficient length so that they appear as an arc over the site of damage.The number of cuttings depends on the thickness of the trunk, the thicker it is, the more cuttings there should be (from 2 to 7 pieces).
Timing
Some types of grafting of fruit trees can be carried out in spring, some in spring, summer and autumn, others even in winter. Most of them take root faster and more effectively during the movement of juices, but vaccinations given in the winter also have a rather high percentage of effectiveness, albeit slightly lower than the vaccinations carried out in the warm period. The gardener should choose what season suits him.
A good advisor in determining the timing of vaccinations can be the lunar calendar of the gardener and gardener, which indicates the most unfavorable time for vaccinations. The forbidden days are the Full Moon and New Moon, when any plants cannot be disturbed, they change the activity of the movement of juices - from the roots to the upper crowns, or, conversely, from the top to the root system.
Conclusion
It is impossible to cover such a capacious material within the framework of one article, but we hope that young gardeners will find enough information here to satisfy their interest in grafting fruit trees. See also the video where experienced gardeners talk about their vaccination experience, show in practice how to do it. Learn, learn from them, wish you good luck.