How to plant fruit trees in spring

Grafting is one of the most common breeding methods for fruit trees and shrubs. This method has a lot of advantages, the main of which is significant savings: the gardener does not have to buy a full-fledged seedling, because even one kidney may be enough for inoculation. Grafting of fruit trees can be carried out in spring or summer, while the spring option is more preferable, since it provides a greater likelihood of graft engraftment. Not every gardener takes on the reproduction of fruit trees by buds or cuttings, but in practice it turns out that this is not so difficult: you just need to choose the appropriate method of grafting.

About spring grafting fruit trees will be described in detail in pictures and videos. This article will describe the features of the most popular methods of grafting fruit, tell about the rules of this procedure, and give specific recommendations for each tree.

The essence of the method and its advantages

For novice gardeners, grafting fruit trees may seem like a daunting task, but if done correctly, the result will surely please. In horticulture, grafting is commonly called the method of propagation of trees and shrubs by the engraftment of a part of one plant to another.

As a rootstock, a gardener can use almost any tree on his site - a new variety or other crop will take root to it. The graft is the part of the plant that needs to be propagated. An eye or a stalk can be used as a scion, sometimes even a whole plant is taken.

There are about two hundred officially registered methods of grafting fruit trees and shrubs. Not only the methods of joining parts of two plants can differ, but also the timing of the grafting, the quality of the stock and scion.

Attention! The main requirement for successful propagation of plants by cuttings is a suitable grafting time. During the period of fusion of two plants in the rootstock there should be an increased sap flow, while the scion, on the contrary, should still be in a state of "hibernation".

Propagating fruit trees by grafting is very popular not only in large gardens, but also in small summer cottages. This method has a number of advantages:

  • for reproduction of a valuable variety, you do not need to buy a full-fledged seedling with roots - it is enough to take one bud or a small shoot;
  • you do not need to uproot the stumps of old or disliked trees - new varieties are grafted onto their roots or shoots;
  • grafted crops begin to bear fruit several years earlier than those that were propagated by seedlings;
  • in a small area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe plot, a gardener can get many different crops, for this, different types of fruit are grafted onto one stock;
  • grafting improves frost resistance - a southern heat-loving plant is grafted onto the roots of a local variety;
  • in large gardens, the grafting method significantly increases the yield of trees, replacing old or damaged shoots with young and fresh ones.

These benefits of grafting should be an incentive for a gardener who has never used this method. In addition in practice, it turns out that there is nothing complicated in vaccination - you just need to choose the appropriate method.

When can you vaccinate

In principle, fruit can be grafted throughout the year. but spring grafting is considered more effective, because it is more natural and physiological. With the onset of warmth, sap flow begins in the trees, so the cambium of the scion and rootstock grow together well.

Important! Active sap flow in various fruit crops occurs in the period from late March to mid-June.

In order for the fusion of cultures to be successful, the scion, on the contrary, must still "sleep", that is, the buds on the cuttings should not swell and hatch. Therefore, cuttings for grafting are prepared in advance. For the spring procedure, they can be cut in the same season, but for summer grafting, you should use last year's cuttings, which can be stored in the basement.

Spring harvesting of cuttings should be carried out immediately before the grafting procedure itself. All cuts on the scion and rootstock should be done quickly, avoiding chapping and drying of the cambium.

Rules for successful vaccination

In order for fruit grafting in spring to be successful, some recommendations must be followed:

  • use a special tool (garden and copulation knives, pruning shears, duct tape, garden pitch, saw, alcohol);
  • choose a healthy tree as a rootstock without traces of disease, damage or frostbite;
  • the age of the stone fruit stock should not exceed 10 years, for pome trees this is not so important, since they live longer;
  • if several different crops or varieties are grafted onto one stock, it should be borne in mind that the timing of their ripening must coincide;
  • scion cuttings should also be absolutely healthy, have several large buds that have not yet woken up;
  • tools, hands and cuts on the rootstock and scion must be clean, for this they are wiped with alcohol;
  • sections of the bark and layers of cambium in grafted crops should coincide as much as possible;
  • the whole procedure is carried out very quickly so that light and air have minimal contact with the wood slices.

Advice! It is recommended to vaccinate fruit trees and shrubs in dry and cloudy weather. If the vaccination is summer and the weather is hot and dry, the tree should be watered abundantly 10-12 days before the procedure (this stimulates sap flow).

Most popular methods

The methods of grafting fruit trees in spring may differ depending on the type of scion, weather conditions, and the season. Each gardener chooses the most suitable option for specific conditions.

Important! For each fruit tree, there are the most suitable grafting methods, and the recommended times for this procedure also differ.

Into the cleft

In the past, this method was used by most gardeners, and it was called a "clothespin". It is advisable to use this option when the bark of the stock is too thick, the tree itself is damaged by previous unsuccessful grafts. It is better to choose mature trees with a well-developed root system. And the thickness of the cuttings for the scion should be slightly more than usual, the number of buds should be at least five.

In practice, the cleavage grafting method looks like this:

  1. The stock is cut 10-12 cm above ground level.
  2. An incision is made in the trunk or shoot with a hatchet, into which you need to temporarily insert a wedge (for example, a screwdriver or a chip).
  3. The lower part of the scion must be cut obliquely with a knife on both sides. The cutting height is approximately 4 cm.
  4. Now the scion is inserted into the crevice of the rootstock, the wedge is removed.
  5. The cuttings are held so tightly that often it is not even necessary to fix the grafting site with electrical tape. You just need to carefully fill the entire plot with garden varnish.

Advice! If the diameter of the rootstock cut allows, it is better to use two cuttings at once, setting them in parallel.

For the bark

In this way, it is customary to graft adult fruit trees (from three to ten years), you can use an overgrown scion of a large diameter. A suitable time for grafting is in the middle of the sap flow process, when the bark is easily separated from the trunk.

The optimum rootstock diameter is two to twenty centimeters. The graft is chosen with a thickness of about 0.7-1.5 cm. The way is done like this:

  1. The stem of the stock is cut at a height of 7-10 cm from the ground. If inoculation is carried out on the shoot, you need to make a cut 2-4 cm from the fork.
  2. The cut should be cleaned with a sharp, disinfected knife. You should not touch the cut site with your hands.
  3. The scion is cut out, 10-15 cm long.
  4. The lower part of the scion is cut smoothly at a slight angle. Cut length - 3-4 cm.
  5. On the lateral surface of the stock, an incision is made in the bark, 4 cm long. The edges of the bark are slightly bent.
  6. The stalk is inserted into the “pocket” formed by the rootstock bark so that its edge protrudes slightly from above (by 1-2 mm).
  7. The open parts of the graft are covered with garden pitch, and then rewound this place with electrical tape.

Attention! Bark grafting is most effective when rootstock and scion diameters are very different. The same method is used to inoculate overgrown cuttings and seedlings that were unsuccessfully used for budding.

Improved copulation

Copulation can be performed in several ways, copulation with a "saddle", with a "tongue", is common. But it is the improved copulation of fruit trees that is considered the most effective. It is also the easiest to perform.

The timing of copulation is in the spring, until the juices move in the tree and the buds swell. The diameters of the rootstock and scion for such a grafting should be the same and equal to 0.7-1.5 cm.

The vaccination method is implemented as follows:

  1. On the scion and rootstock, two identical oblique cuts are made, the knife is held at an angle of 25-30 degrees.
  2. In the middle of each cut, you need to make a small incision ("tongue") - about a centimeter in length.
  3. The graft must be connected with the stock so that their "tongues" stick together, and the layers of cambium (a thin green layer between bark and wood) coincide.
  4. The vaccination site must be rewound with electrical tape so that the sticky layer is outside. A plastic bag is put on top of the grafted stalk.

Important! Improved copulation can be performed in winter. To do this, the rootstock is dug up in late autumn along with the roots, the procedure is performed in a warm room, after which the grafted stalk is stored in the basement, placing its roots in the sand. In the spring, the tree is planted in a permanent place.

Over the edge

The method of grafting fruit trees into the cut is rarely used in nurseries or industrial gardens, but it is liked by amateur gardeners. To implement the method, a stock of any thickness is suitable. Inoculation through the incision ensures good and fast healing. The most effective way to rejuvenate trees is when gardeners replace the crown and fruiting shoots.

Vaccination is carried out as follows:

  1. A shallow oblique incision is made in the bark of the stock, tapering downward.
  2. A scion with two buds is taken.
  3. The lower edge of the scion is cut from both sides with an oblique cut. The result should be a sharp cut.
  4. The graft is wedged into the rootstock gap (in the cut), the grafting is wrapped with electrical tape and putty with garden pitch.

It is possible to graft fruit trees into the incision in spring, summer or winter.

Optimal timing and methods

What's good for an apple tree may not work for a cherry. therefore for each tree in the garden, there are recommended grafting times and the most suitable methods:

  • apricots it is better to vaccinate from the end of April to the beginning of May, using the graft in the cleft, behind the bark, by the bridge;
  • apple tree can be grafted by budding in April-early May, March-April is more suitable for grafting with cuttings;
  • before bud break pear they are grafted behind the bark, at the beginning of sap flow - with a bridge, from mid-April - in a split or in a side cut;
  • for vaccination cherries you need to wait for the peak of sap flow, this tree can be grafted at the end of summer;
  • in some regions plum they are grafted already at the end of February, using the splitting method, butt and behind the bark;
  • cherries grafted throughout the warm season, before grafting, the tree should be watered abundantly;
  • peaches they begin to vaccinate from mid-March, after the procedure, the vaccination site is covered with polyethylene, which is replaced with paper in May.

If the vaccine did not work the first time, do not despair - you need to experiment, applying all new methods.

Conclusion

How to plant trees in the garden must be decided by the gardener himself. All methods of grafting fruit are effective and can be completed successfully if the technology is followed and the right time is chosen.

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