Content
No matter how beautiful other flowers are, they cannot compete with the rose. The popularity of this flower all over the world is growing steadily, it never goes out of fashion, it is just that hybrid tea roses are in favor today, and tomorrow, perhaps, there will be ground cover ones. In recent years, interest in climbing roses has increased, and has subsided. This is primarily due to the fact that many new varieties have appeared that combine the best features of the multi-flowered and large-flowered varieties.
Growing climbing roses on personal plots has become commonplace, but many complain that, unlike other varieties, these beauties behave capriciously and do not live up to the expectations placed on them. The thing is that you need to take care of them a little differently, and the support for a climbing rose is of great importance, it must be made of the right material and positioned in the right place, and not anywhere. In this article, we will try to answer most of the questions that arise when caring for climbing roses.
General acquaintance with climbing roses
When we talk about climbing roses, we usually mean a plant with flexible long branches. Today it is impossible to trace the varietal climbing rose to its wild predecessors. It is the end result of centuries of selection and crossing of both pre-existing varieties and various species of rose hips.
The classification of climbing roses is currently at the stage of formation, since the old one has finally lost its relevance, and the new one has not yet fully taken shape. By and large, all climbing roses are subdivided into two very extensive subgroups: small-flowered and large-flowered.
Small-flowered climbing roses
Representatives of this subgroup are distinguished by long flexible branches of about 4-6 meters and numerous small flowers collected in large clusters. They usually bloom only once a season, but very profusely and for a long time on the stems of the previous year. It is imperative to grow climbing roses of a small-flowered group on supports.
Large-flowered climbing roses
These plants differ primarily in that flowering occurs on the branches of the current year, several times per season. Usually large-flowered climbing roses have more powerful and shorter stems - about one and a half meters, flowers are much larger than those of the previous subgroup. As you can see in the photo, they can be single or collected in loose brushes of several pieces.
Climbing or climbing rose
The question often arises of how to distinguish a climbing rose from a climbing one. The answer is very simple - no way. From the point of view of a biologist or gardener, there is not a single curly varieties of roses... The stems of this plant are not able to wrap around the support, they are attached to it. A rose does not have a mustache capable of grasping something on its own.
They may object to us that they have repeatedly seen in the country from neighbors or in a magazine in the photo climbing rosewho is climbing a tree and no garter is visible there. This is simply explained - young shoots of a climbing rose are directed upwards, and they droop, having reached a certain height. The thorns of such plants are usually very large, they cling to a nearby tree, young side shoots grow up and to the side, bypassing the obstacle in the form of branches, and then grab onto them. As a result, the tree and the climbing rose are so intertwined that even with a strong desire, it will not work to unhook them.
Both terms have the right to exist and, by and large, are not in conflict with each other.
Modern climbing roses
Although modern climbing roses are currently not officially divided into groups, traders, landscape designers and owners of summer cottages for their own convenience have already divided them into ramblers, cordes, climbers and klaymbings. Perhaps several years will pass and some of these names will be officially approved.
Ramblers and cordes blooms on the branches of the previous season and are a modern version of small-flowered climbing roses. But more and more re-flowering varieties appear, and cordes have rather large glasses. Look at the photo, what wonderful flowers modern varieties have.
Climbers and climbings are similar in that they bloom again, moreover, like large-flowered climbing roses on a new growth. But the klaymbings are a bud mutation of the floribunda rose, hybrid tea or other groups. They resemble a climbing rose to everyone except the glass, which they inherited from the original variety. True, they are not always inherited by them.
Agrotechnics of roses
To get a beautiful healthy plant, you need to systematically properly care for it. Fortunately, roses are hardy plants, but they don't like to be left unattended. Caring for climbing roses should be systematic - they will do without it for a while, but then you will notice that the once beautiful variety has degenerated - it has become untidy, rarely blooms, and has lost its repair ability.
Planting climbing roses
The correct planting of a climbing rose is a guarantee of its health and long-term abundant flowering. These plants can live on the site for more than 20 years, therefore, they need to be placed thoughtfully and correctly. It happens that we bury a seedling in a hole, and then we wonder why the same plant at a neighbor's dacha has braided the entire wall in two years, and constantly blooms, and we have given two inferior flowers and looks as if it is going to die.
Seat selection
Climbing roses have their own requirements for growing conditions:
- The area where the flowers will grow should be well lit most of the day. The plant tolerates light shading well in the second half of the day, but at first it will bloom badly in a deep shade, it will hurt, it will become difficult to care for it, and over time it will die without a transplant.
- Fortunately, climbing roses are undemanding to soil. And although weakly acidic, humus-rich, well-drained loams are most suitable for them, they will grow on almost any soil. Where climbing roses should not be planted is on incredibly acidic or alkaline soils. On poor and very dense clay soils, you need to add organic matter.And to improve soil drainage for climbing roses, sometimes it is enough to loosen the soil twice before planting.
- What plants absolutely cannot stand is wetlands. You cannot plant them in places where the water table rises above 1.5 m. If you have just such a site, before growing climbing roses, you need to make a raised flower bed or terrace for them.
- You cannot plant young plants where roses have been growing for more than 10 years before - the soil there is depleted and infected with pathogens and pests. What to do if it is necessary to plant climbing roses at this place, will be described below.
- These plants do not like low-lying, open areas blown by strong winds.
- In order for them not to get sick, you need space.
Planting time
It is believed that climbing roses can be planted at any time. You can do it, but in order to avoid problems in the future, it is better to do it at the right time. An open-rooted plant in regions with cold, damp climates and poor soil is best planted in April or May. In the southernmost regions, the climbing rose is planted in November, and slightly to the north - at the end of October, when the Indian summer ends.
Year after year is not necessary, make sure that during planting the soil is not already or is still frozen or waterlogged.
But container plants can be planted throughout the season.
Soil preparation
Planting a climbing rose and caring for it in the future will be much easier if you prepare the soil in advance.
- The site for the rose garden must first be dug twice to a depth of 50-70 cm, this is especially important for heavy clay soils.
- On poor soils for digging, add 10-20 kg of organic matter (manure, humus or peat compost) per 1 sq. m, the more, the worse the condition of the soil.
- In very acidic soil, add 500 g of dolomite flour or lime per square meter.
- On chalky soils or in those places where roses have been growing for more than 10 years in a row, planting holes are dug 60x60 cm deep 45 cm.They are filled with a planting mixture consisting of equal parts of turf and peat with the addition of a half-liter jar of bone meal for two buckets of mixture.
- You can leave small stones in the ground, but the roots weeds must be carefully selected and discarded.
- It is recommended to let the soil settle for 6 weeks before planting climbing roses.
Plant preparation
It happens that purchased climbing roses with a bare root cannot be planted immediately, they need to be saved somehow. To do this, dig a V-shaped hole, lay out labeled plants along one side. The deepening is covered with soil, it is slightly compacted.
Immediately before planting, the roots of the plants are soaked in water for a couple of hours. It is good if root or heteroauxin is added to it. If the stems of the plant are shriveled, the climbing rose bush is immersed in water entirely.
Make sure that all old, broken or too weak shoots are removed from it, and when planting in spring, old leaves. If there are rotten or broken roots, remove them, and if they are very long, shorten them to 30 cm.
Planting a rose
Whether the care and cultivation of climbing roses will be easy depends largely on proper planting.First of all, we note that if several plants are supposed to be planted, the distance between them should be at least 2-3 meters. Otherwise, climbing roses will simply interfere with each other, caring for them will be difficult. Other plants should not be planted closer than half a meter from the rosebush.
Planting a climbing rose with an open root
If you are planting a bare-root plant, dig a hole 40 cm from the support with a bevel in the opposite direction from it. The hole should be neither deep nor too shallow, the standard length of the planting hole is 60 cm, depth is 30. Adjust its size depending on the shape and size of the plant's root system.
Pour several handfuls of planting mixture on the bottom of the hole (how to prepare it is described in the chapter on preparing the soil for planting), lay the roots of the climbing rose in the opposite direction from the support. Sprinkle them with two shovels of soil, carefully compact it.
Lay a plank across the hole, making sure the root collar of the plant or the grafting site is flush with the ground. Fill in half the volume of the planting mixture and lightly compact the soil again.
Fill the hole completely, squeeze the soil again and water the climbing rose abundantly. Even if the ground was damp when planting a climbing rose, you will need at least a bucket of water per plant. When it is absorbed, add the planting mixture. As a result, the root collar or the grafting site will be 2-3 cm deep. This is the correct planting of the plant.
Even if you are planting climbing roses in the spring, add a small mound of earth to cover part of the stem. Now it only remains to tie the branches to the support.
Container climbing roses
Of course, a container plant that can be planted at any time of the year. Planting it is not as difficult as one with an open root. But here another problem may lie in wait for us - in the nutritious peat mixture, the roots are quite comfortable and they may not rush to germinate into the garden soil.
We will show you how to properly plant a rose from a container. Dig a planting hole, on all sides 10 cm larger than the size of the pot.Pour a layer of planting mixture on the bottom, carefully, trying not to disturb the earthy ball, take out a climbing rose, set it in the center of the hole so that the upper part of the earthy ball is level with the edges landing fossa.
Fill the empty space with planting mixture, carefully compact it. Water the plant abundantly, and when the water is completely absorbed, top up the soil.
The first time after leaving, the plant needs to be watered abundantly and often, and if you planted them in the spring, then shade in the first days. You can just cover them with newspapers at noon.
Garter of climbing roses to supports
A climbing or climbing rose has long, flexible shoots that often need support. What does often mean? Do climbing roses not always tie up?
Plants that do not need support
Large-flowered varieties of climbing roses really do not always need support. If the plant has powerful erect stems, which, having reached a certain length, droop, and there is enough space on the site, you can not tie them up. They can be used to form a beautiful hedge in a large area that does not require much maintenance. You just need to take into account that climbing roses have free growth, therefore, it will not be possible to give such a hedge a strict geometric shape.
A climbing, large-flowered rose with beautiful leaves and an attractive crown can act as a tapeworm (single focal plant). Look at the photo, how beautiful she can be.
But some climbing large-flowered roses, after a few years, may require support.To do this, dig in a few pieces of reinforcement or wooden posts around the plant, connect them either with a strong thick rope or crossbars. Flexible branches will cover the supports, and the plant will become more resilient and beautiful.
Forming a bush in the form of a fan
Usually, small-flowered climbing roses are formed in this way, but large-flowered varieties formed along the wall, hedges or trellises will look spectacular.
Remember that the garter of climbing roses is not an easy task, you need to form a plant from the moment of planting. To do this, a support grid is installed near the wall of the house at a distance of at least 7.5 cm or hooks are driven into the wall in even rows and a strong wire in a plastic sheath is pulled tightly. Hooks for tensioning the wire are driven in at least every 1.2 meters, the distance between the rows of wire should be no more than 50 cm.
The main shoots of the climbing rose, if possible, should be directed horizontally or in the form of a fan. Side shoots will grow upward, they will drape the wall nicely. It is necessary to tie the shoots to the support with a strong wire in a plastic sheath, and not very tight - so it does not injure the stems when they become thicker.
Caring for a climbing rose tied in this way will not be easy. It is even more difficult to shelter such a structure for the winter, but the wall, decorated with beautiful fragrant flowers, will be so spectacular that it will more than pay off all the efforts.
Small architectural forms
MAFs (small architectural forms) are all architectural decorative elements located in our garden and serving to decorate it. They often perform purely utilitarian functions.
You can decorate many of them with climbing roses: gazebos, trellises, pergolas, arches. From the very beginning of the regrowth of the shoots, they are carefully guided along the support, tying them up with a strong wire in a plastic sheath.
Pillar support
Around a pillar or tripod, young shoots of climbing roses are simply wrapped in a spiral and carefully tied.
Wood as a support for a climbing rose
Sometimes it happens that a large plant disappears or loses its decorative effect on the site, and there is no way to uproot it. Plant a climbing rose from the windward side of the tree and tie it until it grows to the branches. After a couple of years, with proper care, you will have a very picturesque composition.
Climbing rose care
There is no other plant, around the care of which there has been so much controversy. Rose growers all over the world agree on three things: climbing roses need to be watered regularly, fed and loosened the soil under them. True, in recent years, mulching of the soil around the plants has become very popular, which does not allow for frequent cultivation, but helps to retain moisture and protects against weeds.
Watering
Climbing roses, especially grafted ones, have a powerful root system. Old plants can go without watering for a long time, even in the hottest dry summer. Still, it is better if you water them as the soil dries out.
It is best to water the plants in the evening or early in the morning at the root. Getting on the leaves, moisture can cause fungal diseases, especially often the climbing rose suffers from powdery mildew. Better yet, if you have the funds and the ability to install drip irrigation.
What you can't do is water the plant often and little by little. You will moisten the top layer of the soil, the moisture from which will quickly evaporate, and the main roots that feed the plant will suffer from a lack of water. Water sparingly, but in large quantities.Pour at least 15 liters of water under the climbing rose.
Don't be fooled that everything is fine if the old rose bush looks attractive and blooms continuously in hot weather. The plant will take revenge on you next season - in the spring it will not come out of the dormant period, it will give a weak growth and poor flowering. In addition, a climbing rose that was poorly watered the previous summer has flowers that are usually smaller than they can be under normal conditions.
Top dressing
If climbing roses are not fed, they will grow and bloom, but this will affect the growth rate of shoots and the quality of flowering. A plant that has not received the necessary nutrients will give a weak increase (and for climbing varieties this is unacceptable), it will be more susceptible to diseases and may even lose its remontability for the season (the ability to bloom again).
Top dressing of plants is divided into root and foliar.
Root dressing
Specialists-rose growers do root feeding of climbing roses up to 7 times a season. Immediately after opening, they are fed with ammonium nitrate, two weeks later, the feeding is repeated. During the budding period, the plant is given a full range of mineral fertilizers, and it is better to take a special one intended for roses.
Immediately before the first wave of flowering climbing roses, which is usually the most lush and massive and requires a lot of energy from the plant, feed the bushes with infusion of mullein or bird droppings, diluted 1:10 or 1:20, respectively.
After the first wave of flowering, which usually ends at the end of July, climbing roses are fed with full mineral fertilizer, and at this the fertilizing containing nitrogen stops. If the plant assimilates nitrogen further, the growth of shoots will continue, they will not have time to mature by winter and will freeze too much. Sometimes a climbing rose with immature shoots dies in winter.
Starting in August, you need to give the plant two more top dressing. Previously, potassium monophosphate came to the rescue - in addition to saturating the climbing rose with phosphorus and potassium, it helps the shoots ripen, strengthens the root system, helps the plant prepare for winter and survive it safely. Today there are new fertilizers on sale that do not contain nitrogen, when buying, consult with the seller, which is best for your conditions.
Foliar dressing
Foliar dressing is called fast. It is carried out directly on the crown of the plant from a garden sprayer. Experienced gardeners do such treatments every two weeks from the moment the leaves of climbing roses open until the end of summer.
Root dressing works for a long time, but does not reach the leaves and buds immediately, and the foliar dressing is immediately supplied to the soft tissues of the plant, its effect is felt by a climbing rose on the same day. In addition, microelements vital for a perennial plant are better absorbed precisely with foliar feeding.
It is best to apply at the same time a complex mineral fertilizer, highly soluble in water, a chelate complex and epin. Everything is poured into one container and mixed well. To do this, just leave some empty space in it and shake well.
The beauty of foliar dressing of climbing roses is that at the same time they can be used to treat plants from pests and diseases, simply by adding the desired drug along with fertilizers, if this is not prohibited in the instructions.
Foliar treatments of climbing roses should be carried out carefully and only early in the morning or in cloudy weather.
Mulching
Mulching allows you to preserve moisture in the ground, inhibits the growth of weeds and can serve as an additional top dressing for the plant. The soil can be mulched with peat, well-rotted manure, grass cuttings, leaf humus or crushed tree bark.
Loosening
Loosening is designed to protect against weeds and to improve soil aeration, that is, to give oxygen access to the plant roots. You cannot loosen the ground under climbing roses deeper than a couple of centimeters, otherwise you risk damaging the thin sucking roots.
Removing dead buds and root shoots
In order for remontant climbing roses to bloom better, you need to remove wilted flowers in a timely manner. They need to be removed with a secateurs, making a cut over the second or third sheet. In a young plant, only a very short section of the shoot is removed.
If a climbing rose blooms once a season and has beautiful fruits, they are left on the bush. Before sheltering the plant for the winter, the fruits must also be removed.
Root shoots are shoots growing from the stock, not from a grafted varietal plant. If you do not remove them in a timely manner, they will simply drown out the bush. In order to remove root shoots, it is not enough to cut it off at ground level - this way it will grow back even better over time. You need to dig out the root a little and cut off the excess shoot at the very root collar of the plant, and this should be done as early as possible.
Pruning
Pruning is one of the most important steps in plant care. For climbing varieties of roses, it is especially important - after all, both the appearance of the plant and the abundance of flowering depend on the timely and correctly cut shoots. An improperly pruned climbing rose may not bloom at all.
The purpose of pruning is to remove old shoots in a timely manner, which stimulates flowering and the formation of new stems of the plant. New stems also need to be regulated, otherwise we will get a ball of thin branches intertwined with each other, and we will wait for flowering for years.
When to prune
The main pruning of climbing roses is carried out in the spring, during the swelling of the buds, immediately after you remove the winter shelter from the plant. Pruning stimulates the opening of the buds and if done too early, there is a danger that during recurrent frosts, the blossoming leaves will freeze. If tightened with pruning, unnecessary shoots will draw strength from the plant and weaken it.
Climbing multi-flowered roses are pruned after flowering. Remember that they bloom on the thin shoots of the past year - if you cut them all, you will wait for new buds for a whole year.
Pruning methods
By and large, climbing roses do not cut, but remove dead ends on the shoots. There are three options for trimming climbing varieties:
- All weak and dried shoots are cut out from the plant.
- All weak and dried shoots are cut out from the plant. Lateral shoots are cut by one third.
- All weak and dried shoots are cut out from the plant. Lateral shoots are cut by one third. Some of the main and skeletal branches are cut by one third.
Things to remember when pruning
To avoid trouble and unnecessary work, remember the following:
- All trimming should be done only with a sharp, sterile garden tool.
- All plant stems, more than 2 cm thick, must be cut off with a special pruning shears to milking thick branches or sawed off.
- The cut should be flat and smooth.
- The cut should be oblique and located 1 cm above the kidney.
- The direction of the incline of the cut - the kidney is at an acute angle.
- The bud should be facing the outside of the plant.
Reproduction of a climbing rose by cuttings
Almost all climbing roses, except for kaymbings, which are nothing more than a mutation, propagate well by cuttings.The advantage of such reproduction is that the bushes grown from cuttings do not give root growth - they are completely cultivated plants.
In September, slice the well-ripened shoots of the current year to the size of a pencil. A climbing rose from cuttings is not obtained from the tops of the shoots - at this time they either have not ripened, or are still thin. Make the upper cut straight, at a distance of 0.5-1.0 cm from the leaf, the lower one - oblique, 1 cm below the kidney, and it should be on the pointed side of the cut.
Remove all thorns and two lower leaves and place the cutting in the phytohormone solution for 2 hours. In a shady place, well protected from the wind, dig a hole with one flat side about 15 cm deep.Fill it a third with sand and place the cuttings in the groove at a distance of 15 cm from each other, leaning them against the sheer wall so that the bottom sheet is above the surface soil.
Fill the hole with soil and compact it well - neglect of this rule is the most common cause of death of grown young plants. Water the planting liberally. In the future, care will consist in regular watering, shading from the midday sun and in plucking buds - you cannot let a poorly rooted cuttings bloom. In the fall, the young plant is ready for planting in a permanent place.
We told you how to grow a climbing rose from a cutting on your own, we hope that you are convinced that this is not at all difficult.
Conclusion
To properly care for climbing roses, you need to work hard. But the result is simply enchanting. We missed one point - in order for climbing roses to be beautiful and healthy, be sure to love them.
